The Shekhawati region in northern Rajasthan is like an open air museum, renowned for its painted havelis, palaces and forts. Many of the villages are off the usual tourist track, and many of the decorated buildings are sadly in a state of disrepair.

Established in the 14th century, Shekhawati region was once controlled by Rao Shekhaji. The region comprises of small towns and villages in the districts of Sikar and Jhunjhunu, with natural boundaries of the Aravalis to the east and desert sands in the west. The Shekha dynasty further expanded their territory in the coming centuries after the Shekhaji died in 1488 AD.

The main towns/villages in Shekhawati are Mandawa, Nawalgarh and Fatehpur.

MANDAWA

Mandawa once functioned as a trading outpost for ancient caravan routes in Shekhawati for goods from China and the Middle East. Thakur Nawal Singh, then ruler of Nawalgarh and Mandawa built a fort in to protect this outpost. Over time, a township grew around the fort and soon attracted a large community of traders, who then settled down at Mandawa. The Mandawa Fort, with its painted arched gateway is adorned with Lord Krishna and his cows. Built in accordance with a medieval theme, beautiful frescoes, exquisite carvings and mirror work add to its beauty. Situated in the middle of the town, the Mandawa Fort has now been converted into a heritage hotel. Mandawa is also famous for its beautiful havelis.

FATEHPUR

Fatehpur was established by Kayamkhani Nawab Fateh Mohd in 1508 AD. He also constructed the Fort of Fatehpur in 1516. The city once served as the capital of Sikar.
Fatehpur is full of wonderful but slowly disintegrating havelis. Only the Haveli Nadine Le Prince has been restored to a high standard. It’s now a gallery and cultural centre and there are plans to offer accommodation shortly. We were shown around this splendid haveli by a young French student who told us that author, Ilay Cooper had recently visited the haveli. Ilay Cooper wrote The Painted Towns of Shekhawati (2009) – it’s a useful ready reference guide which can be bought on-line.
Other attractions in Fatehpur are: Dwarkadheesh Temple, Singhania Haveli and Fatehchand Haveli.

NAWALGARH

Nawalgarh is located midway between Jhunjhunu and Sikar and is well-known for its stunning havelis. It is also a favoured spot for film makers and many Indian and International movies have been shot here. A famous attraction here is the Nawalgarh Fort, which was built by Thakur Nawal Singh. The Roop Niwas Palace, located one km from Nawalgarh fort is a charming palace with beautiful gardens and fountains. It is now a heritage hotel.

ALSISAR

Alsisar is a small town in Jhunjhunu is surrounded by arid dessert. Alsisar was awarded to Thakur Samarth Singh by his father, Thakur Pahad Singh of Heerwa, who made it his capital in 1783 AD. The famous Alsisar Mahal, a fine example of Rajput architecture with its fresco carvings and depiction of historical events on its walls, was built by Shekhawat Thikanedars. Alsisar is renowned for its Rajasthani hospitality, and tourists flock here to get a taste of that along with its famous castles, havelis and cenotaphs. Make sure you pay a visit to the Kejriwal Haveli, Laxmi Narayan Temple, Thakur Chaatu Singh’s Chhatri, Ram Jas Jhunjhunwala Ki Haveli among others.

BISSAU

Bissau, a village in Jhunjhunu, was originally called Vishala Jat Ki Dhani. It was awarded to Thakur Keshri Singh by his Father MahaRao Shardul Singh Ji. Keshari Singh constructed a war fort and a defensive boundary wall for defence. He named it Bissau in 1746 AD. The rulers of Bissau belong to the Bhojraj clan of Shekhawats, and were the descendants of the famous ruler Maharao Shekha.

RAMGARH

Ramgarh was founded in 1791 AD by the Poddar family, and back then, was considered one of the richest towns in 19th century India. Ramgarh is famous for its paintings, old temples, cenotaphs and havelis. While Ramgarh has a lot to offer in terms of sightseeing, the Ramgopal Chhatri and Poddar’s Haveli are especially popular among tourists.

DUNDLOD

Dundlod, a town in Jhunjhunu is famous for its fort and havelis. This fort was built in 1750 by Keshari Singh, son of Rajput ruler, Sardul Singh. Dundlod is easily accessible by road from Delhi, Jaipur, and Bikaner. The Dundlod Fort is a blend of the Rajput and Mughal art and architecture. The Chhatri of Ram Dutt Goenka, located near the fort is also a popular tourist attraction. Built in 1888 AD, the dome of the cenotaph is decorated with floral motifs with banners extending from the centre. The Marwari breed of horses, that are now finding their own identity across the world, are bred in Dundlod.

CHURU

Kanhaiyalal Bagla Haveli is a beautiful structure, which stands on the south of the main bazaar. Constructed in around 1880 AD, the haveli represents the finest lattice work and architectural styles in the entire Shekhawati region. The murals and wall paintings of the haveli depict Dhola and Maru, the romantic couple from folk tales, on a camel. The walls of the haveli are also adorned with the episodes of Dhola- Maru, the lovers fleeing on their camel.

Aath Kambh Chhatri, one of the buildings possessing great historical significance, is an eight pillared dome that stands on the northern side of the town. Lying between the premises adjoining the western side of the vegetable market, the chhatri is believed to be constructed in 1776. Over the years, the windblown sand has virtually buried the base of the structure, while the interiors are still adorned with beautiful murals and stone carved paintings.

Laxminarayan Temple is simple from the outside but has a grand architectural splendour from within. The entrance has a projected foliated arch adorned with beautiful mural paintings. It is easily accessible from all parts of Churu, and the serenity of this temple makes it a must-visit in your itinerary.

Digambar Jain Temple is a 150-year-old structure and can be described as piece of art in itself. Its interiors resemble a lavish royal court than a temple courtyard. This temple has some of the best paintings painted in gold, centred mostly on moral living suggestions. The walls and the interior are adorned with glass works characteristic of the magnificence of the Rajput era.

Sethani Ka Johara lies on the north side of the road perhaps 5 km west of Churu along the Ratangarh road. It is perhaps the finest johara (reservoir) in the area in that it is not only attractive but also efficient, holding a store of water, often from one monsoon to the next. It was built in 1899 AD by the widow of Bhagwan Das Bagla as part of the famine relief projects that the merchants financed in those terrible years of the close of the century. A peaceful place, it attracts various birds and animals, including Nilgais, in winter.

RATANGARH

Ratangarh Fort was built in the early 18th century by Surat Singh, who named it after his son Ratan Singh, and boasts imposing gateways, several monuments (which are mostly in ruins today) and a clock tower, which is also known as Ghantaghar. The Ratangarh Fort makes for a lovely tourist destination, surrounded by several ethnic villages.

Raghunathji Mandir, also known as Bara Mandir, is located in the vicinity of the Ratangarh town. Dedicated to Lord Raghunath or Rama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the temple is believed to be constructed in early 19th century. It is a single storied temple with an elevated entrance. The top of the temple has a series of cupolas. The temple is believed to liberate one from the pains of life.

Tal Chhapar Sanctuary
Renowned for being a safe haven black bucks and a variety of birds, this sanctuary is named after the Chhapar village. Located in the Sujangarh Tehsil of Churu, it is 210 km from Jaipur. Its open grasslands scattered with trees give it the appearance of a savannah. The sanctuary is a bird watcher’s paradise as it is home to birds such as eastern imperial eagle, black ibis, demoiselle cranes, skylarks, ring doves and more. One can also spot the desert fox and desert cat here.

JHUNJHUNU

Khetri Mahal in Khetri, Jhunjhunu is one of the most excellent instances of fine art and structural design of Shekhawati region. It is also known as the Wind Palace of Jhunjhunu. Khetri Mahal was built in the year 1770. A surprising factor is that Khetri Mahal has no windows or doors even though it is named as the Wind Palace. The inimitability of Khetri Mahal lies in the uninterrupted stream of wind which perpetually makes this construction unique from countless buildings. Almost all rooms of the Mahal are linked with each other through an ingenious chain of pillars and arches that offer a gorgeous proportioned vision to the fortress.

LAXMANGARH

Laxmangarh Fort stands tall as the most impressive building in Laxmangarh town, looming majestically over the well laid township on its western side. An exceptional specimen of fort architecture in the entire world, Laxmangarh Fort is built upon scattered pieces of colossal rocks. The top of the ramp offers a fascinating bird’s eye view of the Laxmangarh town modeled to resemble the city lay out of Jaipur – Rajasthan’s bustling capital city.

*** Suggested Shekhawati Circuit ***

Delhi— Gurgaon— Narnaul— Chirawa— Jhunjunu— Churi Ajitgarh {STAY-DAY 1, Vivaana Cultural Hotel}— Dundlod— Nawalgarh—Mandawa— Jhunjunu— Alsisar {STAY-DAY 2, Alsisar Mahal}— Jhunjunu— Bissau— Churu— Ramgarh Shekhawati—Fatehpur {STAY-DAY 3, Le Prince Haveli}— Ratangarh— Tal Chhapar Sanctuary— Fatehpur {STAY-DAY 4, Le Prince Haveli}— Laxmangarh— Sikar—Jaipur {STAY-DAY 5}— Gurgaon— Delhi

I visited Shekhawati in August 2019 and stayed at Vivaana Cultural Hotel, a restored haveli near Mandawa.